Hey there and happy Tuesday! I have been busy sewing away, but have hardly had a minute to pop in over here and blog about my makes. That will change, I’m hoping, when summer rolls around and things slow down a bit! But I’m so happy to be sharing my newest make with you today, the Chi Town Chinos, which pairs perfectly with an old (and worn often make) the Ogden Cami.
Let me talk first about the Ogden Cami. I helped Kelli test this pattern out last summer and it is amazing! It is such a quick sew, requires such little fabric, and is the perfect wardrobe staple. This Ogden was sewn out of crepe de chine from the Imagine Gnats shop (currently sold out) and I wear this tank so often! It is a great layering piece, but also great on it’s own! I sewed this in a size 4 and the fit is perfect! The front and the back of the Ogden Cami look similar (the back is a bit lower cut), so a tag is perfect to add there to help differentiate the front from the back!
Okay, on to the Chi Town Chinos. I grabbed the patterns from the Indiesew shop as part of the Indiesew blogger team and was so excited to try out a new to me pattern designer. I say patterns because this pattern started out as a shorts / skirt pattern. And then a pants version was added as an expansion pack. Both patterns are needed to sew these pants (the original Chi Town Chinos and the expansion pack). I had never sewn one of Alina’s patterns before, so I quickly sewed up the shorts version of the pattern, just to check the fit of her sizing and the fit was perfect.
That got me ready to sew my pants. I know that the temps are only getting hotter here in Florida as summer inches closer, and I’ve heard Allie rave about tencel fabric recently and how perfect it is for hot weather, so I grabbed a couple yards of this olive green tencel twill from the Indiesew shop for my Chi Town Chinos. I was thinking that the tencel twill would make a great, lightweight pair of summer pants, and these chinos turned out to be just that! The tencel twill has great drape, but also is sturdy enough to sew a pair of pants out of.
The Chi Town Chinos pattern is written so well. It holds your hand through every step of the pants sewing process making it no big deal to sew things you thought were scary (like welt pockets). I would highly recommend this pattern and will definitely be sewing more Chi Town Chinos in the future.
I made just a few changes to the pattern for fit or construction preference. I sewed these in a size six, and when I basted the pants together to check for fit, I didn’t like how the pants were pulling across my bottom. I ended up sewing the side seams, just around the hip area, with a 3/8 inch seam allowance to eliminate any fabric pulling across my bottom.
I also decided add interfacing to the waistband facing. In the pair of shorts I sewed up quickly, I used some very inexpensive, lightweight chambray fabric I grabbed from the thrift store. I noticed that my waistband stretches out as the day wears on. I definitely didn’t want that to happen on my pants, so I added interfacing to help ensure that my waistband would be the same size all day! Next time, I would add the interfacing to the pants at the waistline, and leave the facing as is.
My last change (which I no longer like) was to leave off the buttons on the welt pockets. I own some ready to wear pants that have welt pockets without buttons, and I liked the look of that. I hadn’t considered how my fabric would handle this. Well, as the day goes on, the welt pockets start to smile (gape apart) and these open mouth smiles are not what I want on my bottom. I’m going to go back and add buttonholes and buttons to keep these closed!
Here’s a quick recap of my sews
Pattern: Ogden Cami
Fabric: Crepe de Chine
Pattern: Chi Town Chinos (Expansion Pack 2)
Fabric: Tencel Twill
Modifications: let out side seams to 3/8 inch at hip area, interfaced waistband, omitted welt pocket buttons (I wouldn’t do that next time!), shortened 1.5 inches
The pattern / fabric for the Chi Town Chinos were provided to me as part of the Indiesew blogger team. All opinions, as always, are my own…I love both the pattern and the fabric used in this project!