Winslow Culottes and Blackwood Cardigan

Are any of you slow to make a purchase?  I wouldn’t say that I’m indecisive, but rather a well informed consumer.  Before I buy anything (vacuum cleaner, airplane tickets, and even smaller things like sewing patterns and fabric) I like to do my due diligence and research whatever it is I buy.  That’s why this sewing community is so, so good for me.  I can read what other sewists think about a sewing pattern or fabric before I buy it.  Well, I was awfully slow to start buying Helen’s Closet patterns, but I am so glad I finally did!  Over the past month I’ve purchased two of her patterns, the Winslow Culottes and Blackwood Cardigan, and I absolutely love both of them!  In fact, I’ve worn the Blackwood Cardigan at least once a week for the past month!  And I’m sure the Winslow Culottes will be the same (I just finished sewing them yesterday though).


Let me first talk about the Winlsow Culottes.  This is the second culottes pattern that I’ve sewn, and they have a few similarities and a few differences.  I debated weather I needed another culottes pattern in my life, and I’m really glad I did!  (Take a look here at the Tania Culottes.)  They both look like a skirt at first glance.  In fact, I had to convince my family yesterday that these culottes were definitely not a skirt.  The Tania Culottes resemble a circle skirt while the Winslow Culottes resemble a pleated skirt.  Both patterns have an invisible zipper closure, an interfaced straight waistband, and several different length options. The Winslow Culottes, unlike the Tania, have pockets.

I sewed these Winslow Culottes in tencel twill from the Indiesew shop.  Back to my well researched buys, I had heard nothing but good things about tencel twill before I first started sewing with it.  Allie did a great post about tencel in one of her fabric files spotlight.  I love when she focuses on a fabric substrate and teaches a few new things!

This isn’t my first time sewing with tencel.  In fact, it’s my fourth.  I’ve made pants, pajamas, a skirt, and now these culottes. I love how this fabric has a bit of a sueded look to it, and it has great drape and is a great weight!


I sewed the Winslow Culottes pattern almost entirely as written.  The only change was when I cut out view A, I added 1.5 inches to the pattern. Helen mentions in the pattern that these culottes call for a very narrow hem.  I wanted my hem a bit bigger, so with my added length, I hemmed the culottes by ironing up .5 inches and then 1 inch more to create a deeper hem.  That’s it!

On to the Blackwood Cardigan.  I sewed this one up about a month ago, and it is a super quick and easy project.  After reading a few reviews, I decided I should shorten the cardigan by two inches.  I took these inches out of the lengthen shorten line on the body.  I decided to leave the arms extra long and I love the coziness of these long sleeves.

The sleeves are so long that they cover my hands completely, which I love.  I can cuff them up if I want them to end at my wrists, but I love being able to tuck my hands away!

I sewed this Blackwood Cardigan out of a striped ribbed knit from the Indiesew shop.  I was working with a limited yardage of fabric, so I did not attempt any stripe matching.  The ribbed knit wanted to grow and move as I sewed, so I used my walking foot anytime I was not using my serger and I pinned a lot!

Here’s a quick recap of the Winslow Culottes:

Pattern: Winslow Culottes

Fabric: Tencel Twill

Size: 6

Modifications: I sewed view A, added 1.5 inches to the length and then hemmed by ironing up .5 inches and then 1 inch.

And the Blackwood Cardigan:

Pattern: Blackwood Cardigan

Fabric: Stripe Ribbed Knit

Size: Small

Modifications: Shortened body of cardigan by 2 inches

Anybody sewing (or researching) new patterns or fabrics before the new year rolls around?

The fabric for the Winslow Culottes was provided to me as part of the Indiesew blogger team.  All opinions, as always, are my own…I love the fabric used in this project!




Alder Shirtdress Hack

Since the last time I made the Alder Shirtdress (a whole year ago), I’ve been itching to make it again, with just a few changes!  That’s the beauty of a great pattern, it can be used as a perfect block to start with, and with a few small changes it can look completely different!

I knew that the bodice of the Alder Shirtdress was pretty fitted, but I was curious if it could work with a gathered skirt (without needing the buttons in the skirt to get the dress on and off).  I tried on my last alder without unbuttoning the waist and it worked!

Ready for my small list of changes?  I used the bodice from view B and lengthened it 1.5 inches and cut off the skirt portion.  I then grabbed the back skirt piece from view B and used that pattern piece for the front and the back.  I did use the shirt tail hem, but it’s not as deep as the pattern piece suggested.  I cut off 1.5 inches from the bottom of the skirt piece.  And that’s it!

For now, the waist does not have any elastic in it.  I knew I could belt the dress and I like the option to wear it loosely without the cinched in waist!  I may go back and change that, but for now, I like the way it is!

The fabric for the dress is from Indiesew.  Every few months, Allie releases a collection of patterns and fabrics that are so good!  It’s a lot of fun to watch what she is pulling together.  And you have to act fast on those fabrics because they sell out quickly and they aren’t restocked!  This is the crepe rayon that was from the fall/winter collection last month.  This crepe rayon has such a great drape to it!  I love how loose and flowy this fabric is!

Here’s a quick recap of this project:

Pattern: Alder Shirtdress

Fabric: Crepe Rayon from Indiesew (sold out)

Size: 4

Modifications: cut off pattern at bodice, lengthened bodice 1.5 inches, used back skirt piece from view B for front and back skirt, shortened skirt by 1.5 inches (removed length from bottom of skirt)

The pattern & fabric for the Cleo Skirt were provided to me as part of the Indiesew blogger team.  All opinions, as always, are my own…I love both the pattern and the fabric used in this project!


Manhattan Cotton Carolyn Pajamas


Hey there!  It’s been almost a year since I’ve shared anything I’ve sewn for my sweet girl and man has she grown up in that year.  She has crossed over into adult patterns which opens a world of options to sew (which I love) but it floors me that she’s so old!  Sweet Pea is now 13 and truly her nickname fits her…she is so very sweet!  Here she’s modeling her newest pajamas, the Carolyn Pajamas in Geo Pop Fabric.


I don’t have much to share about the pattern (as I’ve sewn it before).  It goes together great and produces such a great pair of pajamas!  This time, I sewed these pajamas 2 at a time.  I sewed a pair for Sweet Pea and a pair for myself (I haven’t snapped pics yet of my pair).  I like batch sewing and how I can get two products in just a little more time than it would take me to sew one!  I did finish the seams slightly different on this pair.  I did flat felled seams on all the side seams to add a little durability!


The fabric for these pajamas are by Emmie K for Robert Kaufman.  I’ve sewn a few things from Emmi’es fabric lines before (dog bed, skirt, bag), but this fabric is in a new substrate, stretch cotton poplin.  There’s also a few prints in the line by Carolyn Friedlander!  It was the perfect fabric for these pajamas!  It has just a slight amount of stretch to it!  It ships to stores this month (October 2017)!


Sweet Pea was eager to let me take pictures of her as long as she could hold our new puppy, Teddy!  Here’s Teddy (which always makes me smile…our last name is Behr….so meet Teddy Behr)!


Quick Details:

Pattern: Carolyn Pajamas

Fabric: Manhattan Cotton Stretch Poplin

Size: 0

Modifications: none, other than adding flat felled seams

Collins Top

Collins Top :: Dandelion Drift

Hey there! I am thrilled we are at a new week!  A new week means there is no hurricane headed my way, power is back on at our house (after almost 48 hours of no power), and all of that adds up to having the brainwaves to put towards sharing a top I sewed months ago!  This is the Collins top, but first let me give you a little central Florida update!

Hurricane Irma played it’s toll on us emotionally and physically for a couple of weeks!  We spent the whole week before Irma landed over Florida prepping the house and the yard to help prevent any debris from whirling around the neighborhood.  We also stocked our pantry with non perishable items (in case we lost power) and ate as much food as we could out of the fridge and freezer to help prevent waste.  And then Sunday night, we spent the night sleeping in the hallway while we anticipated Hurricane Irma to sweep far to the west of us.  Irma had a different plan though and decided at the last minute to bring it’s eye right over our house!  We had one kiddo who slept through the noisy wind, but one was up the whole night listening to the howling outside.  She also sat up around 2 am and said “it’s raining on me!”  We had two small leaks that sprung in the roof during Irma.  We were very fortunate that Irma did not cause too much damage to our small town.  Josh was able to fix our leaks right away Monday morning after the storm passed, and that was the extent of our damage!  We had neighbors missing roofs or tree limbs down, and our whole town was without power for almost 48 hours.  The counties to the south of us lost a bit more, and as I type this, they are still without power.

Irma has taught me that we are so very fortunate to have the luxuries we have.  We are blessed to live in a country where electricity is brought to each and every house.  In Central Florida, we all have air conditioners to alleviate the 90*F humid temps that are outside!  We also live in a community that comes together in times of need!  The week after Irma, the neighborhood was filled with people helping people, stranger helping stranger clean up the aftermath of the storm.  As we drove around town, we saw linemen from all over the United States and even Canada come down to help restore our electricity. Local restaurants were constantly reaching out to these linemen (who left their families at home to help us) feeding them!  It’s a beautiful sight to see communities come together.

I am so grateful to move forward after Irma swept over us and I pray that those that were more affected by the storm (like my husband’s coworker who lost his house to Irma) can begin to pick up the pieces and start rebuilding (which I know is so very hard)!

Collins Top :: Dandelion Drift

Alright, ready to hear a little bit about the Collins Top?  I sewed this top back at the beginning of the summer as a sample for the Indiesew shop. I loved a version I saw that Emily from In The Folds sewed. She used striped fabric and played with the placement of those stripes to highlight the different pattern pieces.  I did the exact same as Emily, using shirting fabric I grabbed from JoAnn’s.  I also used a tiny cork button at the back.

Collins Top :: Dandelion Drift

The CollinsTop has several different pattern pieces, and they all come together perfectly!  Emily is great at drafting her patterns, each piece fitting perfectly together.  And her instructions are so easy to follow!

Collins Top :: Dandelion Drift

There are two versions for the Collins Top, sleeveless and one with sleeves. I definitely want to sew up a sleeveless version too!

Collins Top :: Dandelion Drift

Here’s a quick recap:

Pattern: Collins Top

Size: C

Fabric: cotton shirting from JoAnn

Modifications: none, and I would sew it up exactly the same way next time


I also wanted to say a quick thank you to all of you who reached out to us, making sure we were okay during the storm!  What a sweet community we are surrounded by!

Lander Shorts

Lander Shorts :: Dandelion Drift

So, there’s a hurricane headed my way.  A big one!  And the eye is geared to sweep right over our house Sunday night!  What would you be doing three days before the storm hits?  Me?  Obviously sit down and write a blog post instead of prepare for the storm!  Actually, we are very prepared for the storm…now it’s just a waiting game!  And I didn’t want to sit on these pictures and not share them with you.  These shorts are the newest pattern Kelli of True Bias released this week, the Lander Shorts!

Lander Shorts :: Dandelion Drift

I sewed these denim Lander Shorts from the tester version of the pattern several weeks ago and I have worn them so often!  The non stretch denim for these shorts started out a dark blue (the fabric is still in stock at Indiesew).  I sewed them together following Kelli’s great instructions and then had so much fun bleaching and tea dying them!  I’m not going to go into my bleaching details, but I followed Alina’s instructions (which are great)!

Lander Shorts :: Dandelion Drift

The Lander pattern comes in three lengths, ankle, short, and boot length!  I cannot wait to make a second pair in the boot length!  It has darts in the back to help give the high waisted shaping, which leads to a perfect fit!

Lander Shorts :: Dandelion Drift

I sewed these in a size 6 at the waist and graded out to an 8 at the hip.  Kelli has modified the pattern just a bit since testing, scooping out the crotch seam (which should help eliminate the smile lines you see up front).

Lander Shorts :: Dandelion Drift

Instead of the 1 inch hem that is called for in the pattern, I left my seam raw and simply folded it up 1 inch.  I love the patch pockets that are on the front and back of these shorts, but the buttonfly has to be my favorite feature!  I grabbed the jean buttons from Jo Ann’s and the installation went smoothly!

Lander Shorts :: Dandelion Drift

The shirt you see in the pics was one I sewed over the summer.  It’s the briar tee (I’ve blogged about the pattern here if you want more details).  This one was sewn in modal fabric from Indiesew.  I have another one you can see on instagram that is sewn in the same fabirc, just a different color.  These two shirts are the softest, comfiest shirts I own.  They get worn at least once a week!

Briar Tee :: Dandelion Drift

Okay, I’m headed back to hurricane prep!  While I’m hunkering down, go check out the Lander pattern.  Kelli’s photos are so beautiful, and her pattern is amazing!

Quick Recap

Shorts Pattern: Lander Pant and Short

Size: 6 at waist graded to 8 at hip

Fabric: 10 oz denim

Modifications: I left the bottom hem raw and folded it up 1 inch; bleached and tea dyed fabric


Shirt Pattern: Briar Tee

Size: xs

Fabric: Modal knit

Modifications: straightened out the bottom hem instead of the hi lo hem


Wonderful Things Fabric and a Kalle Shirtdress

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

If you follow me on instagram, I know you’ve seen these shorts before, but I can’t wait to show you a few more pictures!  I sewed a pair of Chi Town Chinos in Bonnie Christine’s newest fabric line, Wonderful Things fabric!  And they pair perfectly with this Kalle Cropped Shirt!

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

Let me share shorts details first!  These are the Chi Town Chinos pattern, from Alina Design Co.  I’ve sewn the shorts version once (never blogged but you can catch a pic on instagram) and the pants version once (you can find those here).  When Bonnie asked me to join her Wonderful Things Fabric tour, I knew that this pattern would pair perfectly with her fabric line!

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

Bonnie kindly sent me one yard of canvas from her Wonderful Things fabric line.  This print is called Aquarelle Study wash, and it comes in canvas and quilting cotton weight.  The canvas fabric was perfect for a pair of shorts!

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

Since I sewed these shorts up a few weeks ago, I’ve worn them at least twice every week!  I absolutely love them!  The print on this fabric is so pretty, I love these new shorts!

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

Ready for shirt details?  This is one of Heather’s newer patterns, the Kalle Shirtdress!  I grabbed a printed copy of the pattern from the imagine gnats shop.  When I was planning out this shirt, I knew I had a couple yards of Robert Kaufman double gauze in chambray (also from the imagine gnats shop).

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

As always, Heather’s patterns are great!  I love that this is a classic button up with a several twists.  I love the hem facing at the bottom of the cropped version!  And the inverted pleat is a deep pleat, giving lots of movement in the top!  The Kalle Shirtdress also has a great cuff detail at the sleeve!

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift


Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift

I only made a couple changes to the pattern.  I lengthen the cropped version 2 inches in the front and the back.  I also decided to finish the cuffs by stitching in the ditch, rather than sewing a 1/8 inch seam.  I love that the Kalle Shirtdress pattern has a lot of options.  There’s a popover placket, hidden placket, tunic length and dress length!  I already have one more version so close to done!

Here’s a quick recap of all the details!


Pattern:  Chi Town Chinos

Fabric:  Wonderful Things Fabric – Aquarelle Study Wash in Canvas

Size: 6

Modifications:  Added interfacing at the waist to help stabilize the waist!

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift


Pattern:  Kalle Shirtdress

Fabric:  Chambray Double Gauze

Size:  6

Modifications:  Lengthened front and back 2 inches, topstitched cuffs by stitching in the ditch

Chi Town Chinos and Kalle Shirtdress :: Dandelion Drift



And you should follow along with the Wonderful Things Blog Tour!  It’s been fun to see what amazing things everyone is sewing with Bonnie’s fabric!  Yesterday, Thomas Pie shared the cutest little outfit made out of knit fabric from Bonnie’s new line!  And tomorrow, Bonnie will be sharing something, I know it’ll be great!


Cleo Skirt

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

Do you ever run across a sewing pattern that will help you recreate a pinterest pin you have had on your board for years?  This is exactly what happened when I saw Rae’s newest sewing pattern, the Cleo Skirt!

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

I’ve had this midi skirt pinned to my pinterest board for such a long time, and as soon as I saw Rae’s Cleo Skirt pattern, my mind immediately went to this pin!  I know, I know, the colors are totally different, but the proportions are absolutely the same!

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

Rae’s pattern has a few options, midi length or above the knee, side pockets or these scooped out pockets, and solid or with a contrast band.  I sewed a mix of the different versions.  I used the pockets from view a because I loved the scoop detail!

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

To get the length / contrast band, I used the final length from view b, and then subtracted the width of the contrast band (that pattern piece is provided with view a).  I then sewed the contrast band on with 1/2 inch seam allowance (not folded in half as the directions tell you to).  I wasn’t sure how I wanted to finish the hem, and ended up going with a hand stitched blind hem.

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

The fabric I used is a tencel shirting from the Indiesew shop (no longer available).  Actually both are tencel shirtings, just in two different colors!  I’ve loved sewing with tencel fabric!  It drapes beautifully, and it has a sort of suede look to it!  The tencel is also very lightweight and breathable, making it perfect for the hot weather we get here in Florida!

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

I absolutely love this skirt!  I love how sophisticated it looks, but that elastic waistband in the back makes it so comfortable!

Cleo Skirt :: Dandelion Drift

Here’s a quick recap of the details:

Pattern:  Cleo Skirt

Fabric:  Indiesew Tencel Shirting

Size:  XS

Modifications:  I used a mix of the different views, pockets from view a, length from view b, contrast band from view a.  And I hemmed the skirt with a hand stitched blind hem.

I should also mention that I’m wearing the Ogden Cami in these photos.  I blogged about it here if you’d like to take a look at the pattern and fabric details!

The pattern & fabric for the Cleo Skirt were provided to me as part of the Indiesew blogger team.  All opinions, as always, are my own…I love both the pattern and the fabric used in this project!



Highlands Wrap Dress

Highlands Wrap Dress :: Dandelion Drift

One of my many goals this summer is to catch up this blog here on all of the things I have been sewing!  Today I have the Highlands Wrap Dress by Allie of Indiesew.  I sewed this dress way back before she even released this pattern in April and have worn it a million times, but just got around to photographing it this past weekend!

Highlands Wrap Dress :: Dandelion Drift

The Highlands Wrap Dress is a woven wrap dress, with many options.  It comes with sleeves, or sleeveless, maxi or midi length.  I loved the idea of a long linen maxi dress that I could wear throughout the summer!

Highlands Wrap Dress :: Dandelion Drift

I grabbed three yards of Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen, which is such good fabric!  It’s a linen rayon blend, so has all the breathability of linen, and the beautiful drape of rayon!

Highlands Wrap Dress :: Dandelion Drift

Allie drafted this pattern perfectly.  It has these sneaky little buttons inside the dress and under the tie that help hold that wrap front closed.  I’ve had wrap dresses before where I was concerned things weren’t going to stay covered, but not with this dress!  She also has beautiful finishing techniques throughout the pattern!  The corners are mitered, and the front opening and armholes are finished with a wide facing.  There’s also a little bit of elastic in the back under the tie that helps hold the dress snugly in place!

Highlands Wrap Dress :: Dandelion Drift

I feel very confident and elegant when I wear my Highlands Wrap Dress!  And every time I’ve worn my dress, I receive a handful of compliments, which always feels great!

Here’s a quick recap of the details:

Pattern:  Highlands Wrap Dress

Fabric:  Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen

Size:  4

Modifications:  Shorten the skirt 1.5 inches

Turia Dungarees

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

Happy Summer!  I have a post that has been long in the making and I’m super excited to share it with you!  These are the Turia Dungarees and I’m in love with them!

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

I bought the Turia Dungarees pattern exactly three years ago, and then did absolutely nothing with it for over two years.  Well, I bought the fabric for these overalls about a year ago, and again did nothing with it (this time for months!).  I don’t know why I do that, but here we are!

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

Finally, when I started sewing I was so excited.  I had done a lot of research to figure out exactly what I wanted my overalls to look like, and what changes I’d need to make to the pattern.  As the pattern is written, the legs on the overalls aren’t very fitted.  And the overalls open and close with a side zipper.  I had been looking at RTW overalls and really liked the look of these three pairs, skinny legs, large bib pocket, light wash.

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

The first thing I did was make a long list of changes to the pattern!  I knew with the stretch of the denim, I could get away without any side opening.  So these overalls just (snugly, with a little bit of wiggling) slide on and off (no side buttons or zipper).  I also grabbed a pair of my RTW jeans that were slim, but not super skinny, and traced them for the shape of the legs.

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

Next, I decided to lower the waist of the jeans by 2.5 inches, so I could add a waistband.  The original pattern has the pants lead straight into the front bib, without a waistband in between.  I also added beltloops.  Both of these pattern pieces I grabbed from the ginger jeans pattern.  Last modification in the waist area was to add a faux fly (again this template came from the ginger jeans pattern).

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

When I was looking at RTW overalls, I noticed the bib pocket usually is pretty big.  I just made up my own pocket piece, wanting it to cover almost the entire front bib!  I also used traditional overall buckles.  These were a vintage pair I found on etsy!

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

The last couple changes I made were to the back of the overalls.  I made some very similar changes that Sasha made to the back of her Turia Dungarees, to help the back of the bib sit closer to my body!  The back pockets that come with the Turia pattern are pretty small, so I used the pocket pattern piece from the ginger jeans.

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

Phew, I think that was it on the pattern modifications!  Once I sewed these up, I realized they were way too pristine looking for overalls, so I started distressing.  I used sandpaper and razors to add distressing along seam lines, on pockets, and at my knees!  But then I realized I really wanted my overalls to be lighter.  I did one bleach bath, constantly stirring the jeans.  I was so nervous that I would leave them in too long and hate the light color!  But, once I washed them. they still were not light enough.  I did a second bleach bath, again stirring constantly!  I was less nervous this time, a little more confident that they would come out great and it worked!  I couldn’t tell you how long or what bleach to water ratio I used, I completely just winged it!  After all the bleach, I did a tea bath overnight.  I absolutely love the results!

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

These Turia Dungarees were a lot of work, but it was all so much fun!  I would absolutely make them again!

Here’s a quick breakdown of the details!

Pattern: Turia Dungarees

Fabric: Stretch Denim from Indiesew (sold out)

Size: 38

Changes:  there are way too many to list here!  Read above to see all the changes!

Modifications I’d Make Next Time: I’d change the crotch curve a bit, maybe compare it to the ginger jeans pattern to get a better fit.  Other than that, I’d keep all the changes already made!

Turia Dungarees :: Dandelion Drift

Chi Town Chinos and Ogden Cami


Hey there and happy Tuesday!  I have been busy sewing away, but have hardly had a minute to pop in over here and blog about my makes.  That will change, I’m hoping, when summer rolls around and things slow down a bit!  But I’m so happy to be sharing my newest make with you today, the Chi Town Chinos, which pairs perfectly with an old (and worn often make) the Ogden Cami.


Let me talk first about the Ogden Cami.  I helped Kelli test this pattern out last summer and it is amazing!  It is such a quick sew, requires such little fabric, and is the perfect wardrobe staple.  This Ogden was sewn out of crepe de chine from the Imagine Gnats shop (currently sold out) and I wear this tank so often!  It is a great layering piece, but also great on it’s own!  I sewed this in a size 4 and the fit is perfect!  The front and the back of the Ogden Cami look similar (the back is a bit lower cut), so a tag is perfect to add there to help differentiate the front from the back!

Chi Town Chinos Side

Okay, on to the Chi Town Chinos.  I grabbed the patterns from the Indiesew shop as part of the Indiesew blogger team and was so excited to try out a new to me pattern designer.  I say patterns because this pattern started out as a shorts / skirt pattern.  And then a pants version was added as an expansion pack.  Both patterns are needed to sew these pants (the original Chi Town Chinos and the expansion pack).  I had never sewn one of Alina’s patterns before, so I quickly sewed up the shorts version of the pattern, just to check the fit of her sizing and the fit was perfect.

Chi Town Chinos Portrait

That got me ready to sew my pants.  I know that the temps are only getting hotter here in Florida as summer inches closer, and I’ve heard Allie rave about tencel fabric recently and how perfect it is for hot weather, so I grabbed a couple yards of this olive green tencel twill from the Indiesew shop for my Chi Town Chinos.  I was thinking that the tencel twill would make a great, lightweight pair of summer pants, and these chinos turned out to be just that!  The tencel twill has great drape, but also is sturdy enough to sew a pair of pants out of.

Chi Town Chinos Walking

The Chi Town Chinos pattern is written so well.  It holds your hand through every step of the pants sewing process making it no big deal to sew things you thought were scary (like welt pockets).  I would highly recommend this pattern and will definitely be sewing more Chi Town Chinos in the future.

Chi Town Chinos Pockets

I made just a few changes to the pattern for fit or construction preference.  I sewed these in a size six, and when I basted the pants together to check for fit, I didn’t like how the pants were pulling across my bottom.  I ended up sewing the side seams, just around the hip area, with a 3/8 inch seam allowance to eliminate any fabric pulling across my bottom.

Chi Town Chinos Front

I also decided add interfacing to the waistband facing.  In the pair of shorts I sewed up quickly, I used some very inexpensive, lightweight chambray fabric I grabbed from the thrift store.  I noticed that my waistband stretches out as the day wears on.  I definitely didn’t want that to happen on my pants, so I added interfacing to help ensure that my waistband would be the same size all day!  Next time, I would add the interfacing to the pants at the waistline, and leave the facing as is.

Chi Town Chinos Butt

My last change (which I no longer like) was to leave off the buttons on the welt pockets.  I own some ready to wear pants that have welt pockets without buttons, and I liked the look of that.  I hadn’t considered how my fabric would handle this.  Well, as the day goes on, the welt pockets start to smile (gape apart) and these open mouth smiles are not what I want on my bottom.  I’m going to go back and add buttonholes and buttons to keep these closed!

Here’s a quick recap of my sews

Pattern: Ogden Cami

Fabric: Crepe de Chine

Size: Four

Modifications: None


Pattern: Chi Town Chinos (Expansion Pack 2)

Fabric: Tencel Twill

Size: Six

Modifications: let out side seams to 3/8 inch at hip area, interfaced waistband, omitted welt pocket buttons (I wouldn’t do that next time!), shortened 1.5 inches


The pattern / fabric for the Chi Town Chinos were provided to me as part of the Indiesew blogger team.  All opinions, as always, are my own…I love both the pattern and the fabric used in this project!